The Shortmarket Club finds a new, unexpected home at The Greenhouse in Sandton, promising fine dining flair – but does it truly deliver?

• Aiming to be South Africa’s first authentic supper club, the space reimagines dining as an immersive, sensory-driven experience.
• The concept hopes to be a seamless flow from sunset cocktails to decadent dinners and late-night dancing.
• The Greenhouse x The Shortmarket Club collaboration blends ambition with atmosphere but can it handle the weight of expectation?
• Visit www.sandtontimes.co.za for more stories.

The celebrated Shortmarket Club has found itself a new home in Sandton – quite literally, as it merges with The Greenhouse, a buzzing venue promising to become South Africa’s first true supper club.

This bold new venture officially opened its doors just ahead of the Easter long weekend, a curious choice in timing given it was Maundy Thursday or “Gründonnerstag” as it’s known in Germany, translating rather fittingly to “Green Thursday”, denoted as “The Last Supper” in the Christian calendar. An auspicious or ironic start, depending on your experience.

This high-profile collaboration has all the makings of a culinary power move. On paper, it reads like a foodie’s fever dream: the electric energy of The Greenhouse fused with the gastronomic finesse of The Shortmarket Club, curated by acclaimed South African Chef Siya Mlaba. The vision? A sensory-driven escape from sunset cocktails to decadent dinners and, if you’re still upright, late-night dancing. Think supper club meets VIP lounge, with a dash of culinary theatre. But as many a fine dining enthusiast has learned, the proof is always in the plating – and the glass.

On preview night, the scene was casual-chic. Friends, family, media types, influencers, and a smattering of the curious and well-connected roamed the venue freely. The brief was open: order what you like, try it out. And so, with anticipation and open minds, we dove in.

Given the effort to style The Greenhouse as the beating heart of nightlife refinement, the drinks menu arrived with high expectations. Signature cocktails included names like Boujee Bitch and The G-Spot – cheeky, playful, and promising. Yet, what followed was ‘bemüht’. The flavours were watered down and lacked the punch one expects from an establishment positioning itself in the upper tiers, especially with signature cocktails. Ironically, the non-alcoholic versions proved to be more flavourful, while the classic Whiskey Sour held its own – a redemption if there was one.

The dining experience was, in a word, strained. The Hot Honey Halloumi, a dish that should sing with texture and sweetness, arrived soft and subdued, more sad than seared. The Beef Sliders? Okay at best – saved only slightly by truffle aioli and a well-sized brioche. Relief came in the form of the Sesame-Crusted Seared Tuna, delicate and balanced, paired beautifully with ponzu sauce. A win.

Unfortunately, the seafood journey quickly regressed. For mains, the Bouillabaisse Pot, brimming with mussels, cod and calamari in prawn bisque, lacked seasoning and soul. The promising crown jewel of the evening – a 950g T-bone steak for a cool R950 – turned out to be a stress test for both the kitchen and the diners. It took ages to arrive, and when it finally did, it was paired with parmesan baby potatoes so undercooked they felt like an ill-timed serve. Sent back, only to receive a second bowl just as hard and disappointing. No crispy outside, fluffy inside, alas!

And at these prices, “that’ll do” doth butter no parsnips. Hopes were cautiously raised for dessert, but the Blueberry Crème Brûlée played it safe. Creamy, mildly fruity, and with a properly torched top, it did the job, though certainly not enough to have guests running back. Feedback from other diners suggested our experience wasn’t unique. One guest noted the chaotic view from the open kitchen, another called the service “lacking.” These aren’t small missteps for seasoned operators.

Surprisingly, the standout of the night wasn’t a dish or drink, but a staff member managing the unisex bathrooms. With just a few weeks on the job, her warm smile, attentiveness, and care for guests made a lasting impression. It’s a small detail in the grand scheme, but one that reminded us what true hospitality can feel like.

Behind the scenes, hospitality entrepreneurs Heinz Rynners, Luke Dakers, and Ben Stanger are the brains behind this Greenhouse x Shortmarket Club project. Their track record over the past five years has positioned them as disruptors, with a knack for curating edgy, luxury-forward dining spaces. This venture fits that mould, though it still seems to be ironing out some growing pains.

They’re not stopping here either. The trio are preparing to open Ocaso, a new Mexican concept in partnership with Corona, in the former Shortmarket Club Rosebank location. Whether it will emerge as the redemption story remains to be seen.

The Greenhouse x The Shortmarket Club is bursting with potential – a unique space with an ambitious culinary vision. But if it wants to live up to its own hype, it needs to polish both plate and performance. Fine dining requires great orchestration, and while there was a glimpse, this was overshadowed by operational strain.

The supper club format is a daring move for Johannesburg, and The Greenhouse could very well become a popular destination if it can align its flair with flawless delivery. For now, we’ll cautiously raise a glass – preferably that Whiskey Sour – and keep an eye on how this bold new chapter unfolds.

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